Off-Road exploration of the Laurentides

 

Trail and Signs“P’tit Train du Nord” means “little train of the north” in English.  When it was constructed around 1900, this rail line was key to the development of industry and tourism in the Laurentian Mountains (“Laurentides” in French).  The trains stopped running and the rail bed was abandoned in the 1980’s, but now it’s been converted to an off-road trail that transports cyclists from the outskirts of Montreal about 200km (124 miles) northwest to Mont-Laurier.

The trail runs along a collection of rivers and lakes that keep the grades moderate and the scenery pleasant.  More than half of the trail is paved, including the entire northern half and about 8 miles around Mont-Tremblant.  The southern section is gravel.

This is one of the most popular trails in Quebec, with gentle (but steady) climbs and lots of nice towns along the way. 

It is also designated as part of Le Route Vert 2 and Le Grand Sentier.

Official Sites: P’tit Train du Nord, Laurentides.com

Difficulty:  Easy-to-Moderate

Ride Type:  One-Way or Out-and-Back

Surface:  Paved and Gravel

  ★★★★☆

Continue reading “P’tit Train du Nord Rail Trail” →

Triangular Tour of Southern Quebec

Trail and SignsQuebec has a great collection of cycling routes, ranging from rail trails to well-marked roads and urban bike lanes.  A few years ago, I read about a loop ride from Montreal up into the Laurentian Mountains, down to Ottawa, and back to Montreal. This summer, I finally mapped it out, packed my gear, and hit the road for a solo adventure.  It was a great 8-day, 360-mile ride.

It’s easiest to think of this tour as a triangle:

  • The first leg heads out of the suburbs northwest of Montreal along the P’tit Train du Nord rail trail and ends in Mt. Laurier.
  • The second leg follows roads west out of Mt. Laurier to Maniwaki, where it connects with the Veloroute du Draveurs heading south to Lows.  From there roads and/or trails lead the way into Ottawa.
  • The final leg follows the Ottawa River back to the outskirts of Montreal.

There are lots of options:  camping or hotels/BnB’s, trails or roads, short days or long rides.  You can customize your agenda to suit your goals.  Hopefully my descriptions will help you plan an enjoyable ride.

Feel free to jump ahead to a specific segment:

Continue reading “Montreal-Laurentians-Ottawa Loop” →

Lessons from the Saddle

Pedaling for hours and days and miles give you a chance to contemplate the details of life.  Sometimes they’re important.  Sometimes they’re not.


Enjoying the Tour:

You Are a Curiosity

Someone pedaling a bike loaded with panniers full of travel gear gets people’s attention and piques their interest.  Don’t be shy.  Take advantage.  They want to hear your stories, tell you theirs, and offer advice.  Pedal up and say hello.  It will make the ride a lot more interesting.

Water-Proof Matters

Wet gear is useless.  Get waterproof bags and test them before the tour, just to make sure…even if the forecast is for sunny skies.  Rain happens.

Continue reading “Words of Wisdom” →

Preparing for a Self-Supported Adventure

Touring Rig Getting ready for an extended tour can be both exciting and stressful.  You’re about to embark on a big, challenging adventure and don’t want to load your bike down with too much weight, but you also don’t want to be left stranded on the side of the road or suffer at a camp site because you forgot to pack something important. 

I just finished an 8-day, 400-mile trek around Quebec and took the opportunity to document my current touring gear collection, which has been refined over a decade of trips.

Continue reading “Bike Touring Gear” →

Gravel, Dunes, and Boardwalks

Beach PathThe Delaware shore has a cluster of popular beach towns that are great for cycling.  Moderate traffic, flat terrain, interesting scenery, and a few nice trails make it well worth loading your bike on the car for some exploration.

I recently spent a long afternoon pedaling through three towns, past suburban developments, marshlands, forests, dunes, boardwalks, tourist-filled beaches, and the captivating Cape Henlopen State Park.

Official Sites:    Delaware Greenways,  Cape Henlopen State Park, Delaware Seashore State Park

Difficulty:  Easy

Ride Type:  Lollipop (out-and-back, with a loop)

Surface:  Paved and Gravel

  ★★★☆☆

Eastern Oregon Day Rides

Sagebrush and Gravel In The High Desert

Map - Eastern Oregon Day Rides
Click to open in Google Maps

I’ve visited Oregon many times over the years but, like most people, have stuck to the wet, green 100-mile strip along the Pacific.  The only exception was a weekend jaunt to the Bend/Sisters area nearly a decade ago that gave me a taste of the dramatically different landscape that lies in the high desert east of the Cascade Range.

When I returned this year to visit my good friends Steve and Laura in Portland, we agreed it was time to get out and see some of the natural wonders in the east, and to do a lot of it by bike.  The distances are long and our time was limited, so we planned a mix of driving and day rides.  We opted for two nights each in John Day, Burns, and Frenchglen.  I scoured maps and local websites to identify loop or out-and-back rides that would mix great scenery with minimal traffic, moderate distances (25-40 miles), reasonable climbing (2500 feet or less) and decent surfaces (asphalt or well-used gravel).  We decided on five rides:

Feel free to jump ahead to a specific ride:

Continue reading “Eastern Oregon Day Rides” →

A Good Workout in the Hills West of Portland

If you’re looking for a day ride that’s a bit more strenuous than the Springwater Corridor or Sauvie Island, but want to avoid the stress of traffic-heavy roads, check out the Banks-Vernonia Rail Trail.  It offers nice towns, great scenery, some elevation changes, and even multiple options for camping.

Official Site:  Oregon State Parks

Difficulty:  Moderate

Ride Type:  Out-and-Back

Surface:  Paved

  ★★★☆☆

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Easy Ride – East Out of Portland

Springwater PathIf you’re looking for a flat, easy, relaxed ride starting downtown or in the southeast quadrant of Portland, the Springwater Corridor is your choice.  It’s a rail trail that starts along the Willamette River near the southern end of the Eastbank Esplanade, heads south to Sellwood, then turns east along Johnson Creek and past Powell Butte to Gresham and Boring.

Most of the trail is off-road and the few road transitions are bike friendly.

Official Site:    City of Portland Parks

Difficulty:  Easy

Ride Type:  Out-and-Back

Surface:  Paved

  ★★★☆☆

Three Rides within 30 miles of Downtown Portland

Portland Day Rides Map
Click to open in Google Maps

Portland is a one of the most bike friendly cities in the US, with bike lanes everywhere, thousands of bike commuters, local bike shops in most neighborhoods, and lots of organized events.  This includes the annual Naked Bike Ride, which flashed through town while I was there in late June and early July.  BikePortland.org has a useful calendar.

I have some great friends who live in the lively Hawthorne neighborhood and are kind enough to let me stay in their basement guest suite during extended summer visits when I can enjoy their company and escape the east coast humidity.  This year, we ventured out for a week-long trip to do some cycling in the high desert of eastern Oregon.  I also took advantage of the opportunity to do some day rides in and around the city.  Each was flexible in length, with options up to 40+ miles and offered great scenery with minimal traffic concerns.

Feel free to jump ahead to a specific ride:

Continue reading “Day Rides Around Portland (OR)” →

Bucolic Loop – Just North of Portland

Multnomah Channel

Just 11 miles from downtown Portland, as the waters of the Columbia and Willamette rivers flow from their confluence towards the Pacific Ocean, they encircle a bucolic piece of farm and park land call Sauvie Island.  It’s about a 60 minute ride (or 20 minute drive) from downtown Portland but feels like a world away, with winding country lanes, quaint farms, lakes, beaches, a lighthouse, and wildlife refuge areas.

Official Site:   SauvieIsland.org

Difficulty:  Easy

Ride Type:  Out-and-Back and/or Loop

Surface:  Paved
  ★★★★☆

Continue reading “Sauvie Island (OR)” →